How to Close the Gap Above Kitchen Cabinets for a Finished Look

Tired of the ugly, dust-collecting space above cabinets? Learn how to extend your cabinets to the ceiling with simple wood framing and molding.

For years my laundry room prioritized function over form.

It was simply a space to wash clothes and store cleaning supplies.

And yes — the cat’s litter box lives there, too.

I prefer cabinets over a builder-grade wire shelf, so we installed inexpensive laminate cabinets from our local hardware store soon after moving in.

The cabinets hide cleaning supplies and keep everything a lot less dusty.

That said, the open gap above the cabinets became a dust magnet — especially with the litter box in the room.

We stored a few odd items up there, like a shoe-dryer contraption and some buckets. It looked messier than I care to admit.

Laundry room with white cabinets with opening above holding cleaning supplies

It was time to make the space enjoyable — or at least less annoying.

One of the first tasks in our laundry room makeover was enclosing the space above the cabinets to prevent dust buildup and create a finished, built-in look.

We moved unused items to the garage and discarded the dryer contraption. The transformation was easier than I expected and the results were worth it.

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Table Of Contents

Supplies to Enclose Space Over Your Cabinets
How to Fill the Gap Above Cabinets
- Locate the studs and beams around the cabinets
- Create an end cap
- Add a header
- Add vertical support frames
- Attach plywood and molding to the frame
- Fill nail holes and sand smooth
- Prime, then paint!
More ideas for the space above your cabinets

Supplies to Enclose Space Over Your Cabinets

This is a straightforward project that requires a handful of common tools and materials. The same technique works for kitchen cabinets as well.

Tools used:

Stud finder
Level
Tape measure
Hammer
Wood glue
Impact drill/driver with screwdriver and drill bits
Miter saw
Putty knife
Caulk gun
Sandpaper (80, 120 & 220 grit)
Tack cloth

Materials used:

3/4″ plywood (for end caps or structural pieces)
2x4s (for framing)
1/4″ plywood sheet (lightweight sheathing for faces)
Scrap wood or 1×3 boards for blocking and nailers
Crown molding and base cap or mullion molding
Nails and wood screws
Toggle bolts (if ceiling studs are not available)
Wood putty and caulk
Primer and paint

How to Fill the Gap Above Cabinets

The basic idea is to build a framed box attached between the cabinet tops and the ceiling, then cover it with plywood and finish with molding. Because we added crown molding, the frame needed solid nailers to secure the trim.

We had some 3/4″ plywood in scraps for one end, but not enough to cover the front, so we used 1/4″ plywood for the front panel and reinforced it with internal supports. If you can use 3/4″ plywood for the front, you can skip some of the internal support steps since the thicker sheet can take nails for the molding on its own.

Locate the studs and beams around the cabinets

Start by locating studs and ceiling joists. If there’s a joist above the cabinet edge you can screw the header directly into it. If not, plan to use toggle bolts or attach blocking to reach a stud.

Create an end cap

Measure cabinet depth (from front to wall) and subtract 1/4″ if you plan to attach 1/4″ plywood to the front. Measure the height from the top of the cabinets to the ceiling and cut a piece of 3/4″ plywood to that height for the end cap.

Build internal supports — a bottom nailer that sits on top of the cabinet and a block at the ceiling that attaches to a wall stud — to securely anchor the end cap. Make sure the end cap is level, then fasten it to the nailer and the ceiling block with nails or screws.

Vertical piece of wood attached to the edge on the top of a cabinet with wood block supports

Add a header

Install a 2×4 header along the ceiling, flush with the edge of the end cap. If you can reach ceiling joists, screw the header into them. If not, use toggle bolts to secure the 2×4 to the drywall — drill holes, insert toggle bolts, and tighten until the 2×4 is snug to the ceiling. Then fasten the end cap to the header.

hand holding a toggle bolt to securely attach wood to drywall when there isn't a stud

Use scrap wood or another 2×4 as the bottom plate of the frame attached to the cabinet tops. Use appropriate nail length so you don’t penetrate the cabinet interior.

Rough wood box framing the open space above cabinets with assorted tools sitting on top of the cabinets

Add vertical support frames

Cut strips of 3/4″ plywood to form vertical I-style supports for the height of the opening. Space these internal supports every 18–24 inches and include a support at the far end next to the wall. These give the box rigidity and provide nailing surfaces for the front panel and molding.

rough wood frame with supports above laundry room cabinets as a frame to attach wood and crown molding

Cabinet topper construction process with one side enclosed and two wooden support beams in place between cabinet tops and ceiling

Attach plywood and molding to the frame

Cover the frame with 1/4″ plywood sheeting for a lightweight finish. Measure carefully and double-check cuts to avoid gaps that require excessive putty. Fasten the plywood to the frame with nails or screws, then install crown molding along the top edge to achieve a furniture-like look.

Along the bottom where the box meets the cabinet tops, use wide mullion or base cap molding to create a finished transition. We added a second “neck” molding about four inches below the crown to visually break up the box and reduce the perceived width.

wood box filling in the space above cabinets in a laundry room with crown molding

Set of four white cabinets with custom wooden topper and trim at ceiling height

Fill nail holes and sand smooth

Fill nail holes and any seams with wood putty, allow it to dry, then sand smooth. Start with 80-grit for heavy leveling, move to 120-grit, and finish with 220-grit for a fine, paint-ready surface. Use a sanding block for curves and an orbital sander for flat panels.

hand holding a sanding block and sanding wood putty on an above cabinet enclosure

Prime, then paint!

Follow the primer’s directions regarding caulking order. If it’s not specified, caulk all seams and trim edges before priming to seal gaps and prevent visible seams after painting. Prime the entire box, let it cure, then paint to match your cabinets.

woman standing on washing machine painting cabinet soffit enclosure

wood box filling in the space above cabinets in a laundry room with crown and neck molding painted Lafayette Green

Custom green painted and trimmed cabinet topper to enclose space between cabinets and ceiling

The final result looks like a custom built-in, with no more open, dust-collecting space above the cabinets.

Lafayette Green cabinets with gold handles and enclosed space above cabinets framed with crown molding in a laundry room over a washer and dryer

More ideas for the space above your cabinets

I chose to enclose the space because I didn’t need extra storage and the area is difficult to reach without a ladder. If accessibility isn’t an issue, consider adding shallow cabinet inserts or custom doors to create usable storage.

If you want storage, you can build the box the same way and add custom-sized doors or pre-made cabinet inserts to the front.

If you have questions or suggestions, feel free to comment on the project or reach out. This simple build transforms builder-grade cabinets into a clean, finished, built-in look that keeps dust out and elevates the room.